Make sure you've already followed the "Wii Basic Trimming Guide" manual before starting this step. You'll need to have trimmed your Wii, so if you haven't done that yet then you'll need to read and complete that section first. 

In addition to trimming, rewiring the Wii is one of the most difficult parts of the G-Boy build. It's important to pay special attention to this part of the guide as messing up during this section could result in your Wii board no longer being functional making it necessary to prepare a new board.

Once you've trimmed your Wii motherboard you're ready to wire up power to the Wii motherboard and test to see if your trimmed board works

• Before you do that though, you'll need to remove the plastic covering the adhesive material on the heat sink and stick down the copper plate found in the "Cooling" parts bag.
  • Make sure that you remove the plastic covering from the copper plate before sticking it down.

Finally, ensure you've removed the large filtering capacitors on the top side of the Wii. You can use a pair of pliers to remove each of the capacitors if you haven't already. If traces rip up it's OK as we'll be wiring video on the other side of the board.

Use the same 22 AWG wire you used for connecting the battery clips for rewiring all the lines in this step:

• Solder 3.3V and GND to the points shown (Red and black wire, respectively)
• Solder a wire between the 1V, 1.15V, and 1.8V relocation points shown in the image and their complimentary pads on the RVL PMS.
• Ensure your wires have enough room to bend. They'll move a bit when you fold the Wii motherboard back into place.

• Fold the Wii motherboard back down as shown.
  • We will not screw the motherboard down yet as there are other steps that require access to the front of the board.
• sing 30 AWG wire, solder a wire to composite video (highlighted in yellow) and ground (black) as shown.
• Solder the wire to the points displayed on the LCD driver board.

Using 34 AWG magnet wire twisted together with a drill (see example here) we're going to need to wire the USB  D+ and D- lines between the Wii and the USB-C PCB.

• Blob a large amount of solder on the tip of your iron and move your twisted wire ends through the blob to strip the magnet wire.
• Solder the two wires to the vias on the Wii as shown.
  • TIP: If you don't have multiple colors of wires, you can mark both ends of a single wire, or only tin one of them at the start.
• Trim the wire to the length of the distance of the D+/D- pads plus a little slack for routing.
• Solder the other end of the wires to their respective data pads on the USB-C PCB.

• Insert a single cell and power on the G-Boy.
• If your Wii boots up and you see video on the screen then great! Your trim works. You're ready to move onto the next section.
• If you get no video then try some of the troubleshooting tips below.

If you do not plan on performing the Bluetooth module relocation, you can use 4 of the M2x5 screws to screw the motherboard to the back half of the case. Ensure you apply some sort of thermal paste onto both the CPU and GPU of the Wii before screwing it down.